DRIFT FUll susser is built 

pete levy cnc bike linkage

Aston: Fully built bike 

It is finanally finished. Deore kit, araya rims, mavic headset. Rides well and has not cracked yet. so may be some further testing.

Aston: with decals

Fianlyl the paint has cured. so it was time fro some custom decals buy gil. the tubing is columbus theron and slx so i have put theron decals on. Looking good now.

Aston: First paint

So after mush fettling, filing and sanding the frame was ready for some paint. I have gone for old school enamel because it is easy to get, easy to paint, is period correct and more importantly works at low ambient temperatures. ( i can only get the workshop up to 15 degrees so acrylic wont work!).

One coat red primer, One light dusting of white primer, 3 coats Cherry red, One coat black.

I will lug lined with some gold and then add decals.

Aston: Final frame 

Finally I have finished the frame. The rear stays were a pest to mitre and in the end I used some seat tube with sand paper on to get them to the right profile. All the cable routing is on including undertube cables and pulley mount to make a bottom pull mech work. I have gone for a Ubrake fitting as well.

I am just waiting for the air temp to get above 10 degrees so i cant get painting.

Aston: Stays and front triangle

Since we are on the jig I though I would tack and braze the chain stays in. All looks good. Just waiting for the new rear stays the seat stays I had were too flimsey for a U-brake so some 15mm ones on there way next week.

Aston: Front triangle

Right I have brazed the down tube and seat tube into the bottom bracket. The Down tube was easy but the seat tube was nto playign the game. I think next tiem i will go full fillet brazed or i will not make them quite so tight fitting. As for the tup tube you will see that it is slightly lower than the drawing. This is because I messed up the first mitre and did not have a spare tube to re-do. So I have mitred it to fit but a little lower down (still learning). Tacked it both ends then fillet brazed. It still needs a tidy up and the rear end.

Aston: Pre tack checks

I have been doing some work on the new frame. its coming together well. I am doing some checks before I tack and measure the front triangle then I will braze the bottom bracket and then the top tube that will be the front end done.

Aston: Headtube-Down tube

I have now started work on Brazing the Aston frame together. I always start with the Headtube down tube. I went for a radius around 10-12mm to give  a nice Overbury's style fillet. The angle I tried to control during the brazing by checking it a lot. It came out very close and a quick cold set and I am sure it will be on the money. It will need a tidy up then on to the next stage.


This is now in build. I have the tube layout printed to full scale and laid out on flat table. I have started cutting tubes. See pic

Headtube Down tube mitre done. Bottom bracket mitre also done. I have tweaked the chain stays with a little heat to give better tyre clearance. the rear dropouts still need some fettling. Oh and i will need to make a Jig...err kind of important.

Aston frame mitred pre brasing

Time for some extra join practice. I like to use real tubing(4130 and 531) as the thickness effect how fast you have to work and how much you have to back the tourch off. Two mains styles i am working.

1. Traditional Big filet. (on left)
So basically it's a traditional capillary braze at first. I use a SIF 101 rod, with a neutral flame. Get the whole area up to tem and introduct the brazing rod, makeing sure it flows all the way around the join and is draw inside. Back the flame off a let coll a little until its all solid. This is important as the brazing material is harder to melt second time rount and that helps in thenext step. The is time to do a fillet braze ontop of that joint. this requires better heat control so i go slowly with a small nozzle. genlty working around the joint trying to make a nice even shap all aroudn the join with out sagging but also as smooth as you can make it.

2. Small fillet (on right)

With modern tubes that are really thin and new brazing rods small fillets have become more popular. I have be trying SIF no.2 rods with 5% Ni which are pretty much the strongest you can get. These only require a fillet that is just under 4 times the tube thickness. So a Nivachrome tube that is 0.8mm wide only requires a fillet of 3-3.5mm. The real trick is to try and do this in one pass to reduce heating time. Although the Nivachrome tubing is pretty tough in comparison to say a 753 tube.  

3. Half finished joint. (below)

With a quick clean up and check to make sure there are no visable voids. This all looks good. I will not bother taking all the way to a finished article as its only a test joint.

Fillet brazed joint
fillet brazed joint

This free website was made using Yola.

No HTML skills required. Build your website in minutes.

Go to www.yola.com and sign up today!

Make a free website with Yola